A first-time importer in Lille shipped USD 8,000 of sterling silver rings from Yiwu and got a EUR 1,900 customs bill at Orly — because the invoice under-declared the alloy, the HS code was wrong, and there was no nickel test on file. The parcel sat in bond for 11 days. Importing jewelry into the EU is not hard; it is just paperwork with three traps that new buyers fall into on the first shipment. Below is the baseline.

The HS codes that actually apply

Most jewelry falls under Chapter 71 of the Combined Nomenclature. Gold jewelry is 7113.19, silver jewelry is 7113.11, platinum 7113.19, and base-metal fashion jewelry is 7117.19. The difference matters: duty rates differ, and customs will reclassify if your invoice says "fashion rings" but the pieces are sterling. Read our companion on HS codes and tariffs for silver jewelry imports to US and EU for the rate walk. The official reference is the EUR-Lex TARIC database.

VAT, duty and the de minimis trap

Since July 2021 the EUR 22 de minimis for VAT no longer exists. Every commercial parcel into the EU now incurs import VAT (19–27%, depending on the member state) plus duty (0–4% for most jewelry). If your supplier ships DDP, confirm they have an EU VAT registration — otherwise the courier will charge you VAT again on delivery. For parcels over EUR 10,000 in a single shipment, you need an EORI number in the destination member state.

REACH, nickel and the jewelry-specific rules

The EU Nickel Directive (2009/105/EC, amending 94/27/EC) caps nickel release at 0.5 mg/week for posts and 0.2 mg/week for items in direct skin contact. REACH Annex XVII also restricts cadmium in jewelry sold to children. The ECHA pages list the current restricted substances. Your supplier should supply a test report from an ISO 17025 lab (SGS, Intertek, Bureau Veritas). Without it, customs or a market-surveillance officer can seize the parcel. We wrote a deeper note on REACH and nickel release for importers.

Documentation stack for a clean entry

For a typical 50–200 piece wholesale parcel, the minimum file is: commercial invoice (in English or the destination language), packing list, bill of lading or air waybill, supplier test reports (nickel, cadmium, lead), certificate of origin (Form A for GSP-eligible origins), and — for lab-grown stones — the IGI/GIA certificate copy. For loose parcels, see loose stone parcel grading on approval and wholesale jewelry insurance for stock in transit.

Common cost surprises to budget for

Three line items new buyers miss: (1) courier brokerage fees of EUR 25–60 per parcel if DDP is not arranged, (2) storage fees in bond if paperwork is 48 hours late, and (3) re-classification duty top-ups if HS code is wrong. Budget 8–12% on top of CIF value for duty, VAT, brokerage and a small contingency on a first run.

CE marking and jewelry: what actually applies

Unlike electronics, jewelry does not need a CE mark on the piece itself. What it does need is a supplier declaration of conformity for REACH and the Nickel Directive, plus the importer's name and address on the packaging or an accompanying document. Since 2021 the EU GPSR (General Product Safety Regulation) makes the importer of record legally responsible for the product on the shelf — so the supplier's test report protects you, but it does not replace your own due diligence.

If you sell through Amazon EU or a marketplace, the platform will ask for the same documents before listing. Keep a single PDF folder per SKU: invoice, packing list, nickel test, cadmium test, lead test, certificate of origin. That folder clears 95% of customs and marketplace checks.

FAQ

Do I need an EORI number for every parcel?

Only if you are the importer of record. If you ship DDP through your supplier, they use their EU EORI. For B2B wholesale under your own company, get one — it takes 1–2 weeks in most member states.

What if the supplier cannot produce a nickel test?

Do not ship. Market surveillance in Germany and the Netherlands is active; a non-compliant lot gets seized and you eat the freight. Pay for your own pre-shipment test (USD 80–150 per SKU).

Is lab-grown diamond jewelry taxed differently in the EU?

No. It is classified under 7113 like any other jewelry. The stone material matters for disclosure, not for duty.

How long does customs clearance take on average?

48–72 hours for a clean air-freight parcel from Shanghai. Sea freight LCL adds 3–5 days. Add a day or two if a customs officer opens the parcel.

HOLYCOME ships DDP into the EU on most wholesale orders, with supplier nickel, cadmium and lead test reports attached to the invoice file. Ask for the EU import pack sheet and a sample clearance file before your first order.